3 * Turn on printer and connect computer.
5 cd /home/reprap/reprappro-software.git/
7 * Select "connect" (make sure it's ttyUSB0 115200),
8 wait for printer to connect
9 * Turn on the hotend and bed heaters
10 * "Load file", select the .stl file. It will be sliced.
11 * "Load file", select the _export.gcode file. It will show up on the RHS.
12 * "SD" / "Upload", accept the suggested filename (but remember it)
13 and when it is done, turn on the hotend and bed heaters again
15 * Pick ooze off nozzle with fine-nosed pliers
16 * Wait for bed (and hotend) to get up to temperature
17 * Pick ooze off nozzle with fine-nosed pliers
18 * "SD" / "Print", select the file you uploaded earlier
19 * While waiting for it to start (~1min?)
20 pick ooze off nozzle with fine-nosed pliers
21 * Watch while it starts and make sure that the skirt sticks to
22 printbed and nothing gets tangled
23 * Check that filament feed path from feedstock coil looks good.
25 ------------------------------------------------------------
27 ~/.pronsolerc -> /home/ian/things/Reprap/play/pronsolerc (adjust to taste)
30 Slic3r - is from slic3r-linux-x86-0-8-4.tar.gz
32 repsnapper - only used this so far for its gcode viewer
34 ------------------------------------------------------------
38 firmware is in marlin.git#iwj and works with make
39 various other firmwares for comparison only
40 sprinter-reprappro.git sprinter.git
42 depends on stuff in arduino-0022 (doesn't work with other arduino
43 versions, incompatible)
45 avrdude -b 38400 -v -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -p atmega644P -c arduino -U flash:w:Marlin.hex
46 needs the reset jumper (which is right next to the mcu) fitted